View Full Version : Mounting my scope on my rifle
03-24-2009, 08:28 PM
Hey guys, I just bought my first rifle and the scope to go with it. My question is, should I or do I need to have the scope professionally mounted. Some people are telling me that I should take it to a place and have it bore sighted and I donít know if I really need to do this or not. I also wanted to know, if I bought a Nikon scope do I need to buy specific Nikon scope rings or can I use any general scope rings from the store.
03-25-2009, 01:00 AM
Seeing as this is your first rifle, I would take it to a local shop, ask them what they recommend, and have them do the work. Typically most, if not all shops, will do all the mounting, and bore sight for free if you buy their products.
To answer your question about rings and mounts, there are not exact matches for everything. There are some companies that make both scopes and rings, other companies make only scopes, other companies make only rings and mounts. I think the most popular/commonly used mounts and rings are the Leupold brand. I have always used Leupold brand rings myself, because I know they work well, and will never fail me. I am sure others will recommend them as well, and of course there will likely be other recommendations too. One thing I do recommend is to NOT buy cheap rings. I have had cheap rings break completely in half on me before, and it was not pretty.
As for bore sighting, this is not required, but it is very helpful. When your scope is first mounted, it is not sighted with anything on the gun, thus you will be firing blindly the first few shots you make, trying to figure out where it is hitting. What bore sighting does is align the scope with the bore of your rifle. It will not make your scope perfect zero, but it will have your initial shots very close to the center. This basically saves you a lot of time when sighting in a rifle.
Finally, scope mounting is not that daunting of a task. If you want to learn to do it, then just do it yourself. Go to a local shop, tell them what type of firearm you have, then have them direct you to the correct mounting bases and rings. Once you have purchased what you need, take it home and install all of it yourself, then mount your scope. In my experience, it is better if you do it yourself, because only you can decide if the position of the scope is just right for you, not someone else.
03-25-2009, 09:36 AM
I'll second the idea that you should consider mounting it yourself if you are handy at all. It's not terribly hard. I've used a wide variety of rings over the years, and right now one of the best values out there are the Weaver Grand Slam rings in the 'rotary dovetail' style, like the Leupolds mentioned above. I need to make a sticky of where it is, but somewhere on here is a post I made about how I mount a scope. Several people have used it and said the description and method worked exceedingly well for them, so I think it's a good process. I've used it on numerous rifles, of all types, and it's worked well for me, obviously. I'll try to find it and post a link.
03-25-2009, 09:54 AM
Here's the link:
The post you'll want to read is near the bottom of the first page.
03-25-2009, 05:23 PM
I'm sure from the sound of your post you'll have no trouble mounting it yourself, but if you choose any good gunshop could do it - Cabellas could do it for you!
Dubyam has it pretty well nailed. As a general observation, you want a stress free mounting. True, the rings are clamping on the scope tube, but this is correct. What you need to avoid is any bending or otherwise bringing things into alignment through clamp pressure.
A little powdered rosin in the rings as a gripping agent will keep the scope from slipping.
03-26-2009, 08:19 AM
I'm surprised you didn't ding me about my favorite color being blue, Mark! ;^)
Thanks for the corroboration. I respect your opinion, so it means a lot. I've really had good success with that method, and several people have PM'd me on this forum to tell me how well it worked for them.
One final caution on mounting a scope - don't get too heavy handed with the wrench when tightening the screws, as they are small and can strip (threads or heads) fairly easily. If you were to have access to an inch-pound torque wrench, you can contact the ring/base maker and get their torque specs and be near perfect.
Dubyam, Even if you use loctite on the ring screw, I guess you're just not that bad of a fellow.
For me, I'm using loctite on the base screws, but I'm not ready to come over to the blue side on rings just yet.
Not to hi-jack the thread, but there are so many uses for loctite. I've been messing around with AR15 rifles for a while, and these thing wouldn't be as accurate as they are without loctite.
Following the Knights Armament directions, Knights calls for red 262 to cement their trigger assembly after final adjustment. Red 262 is meant for bolts in the 1 1/2 inch diameter range. Wow.
If the trigger and hammer pins rotate, yup, a little dab takes care of this.
Fit a flash hider stress free? Turn it up to correct time, and loctite in place.
Front sight base? No need to pin unless you are using a bayonet. Set it on straight and loctite into place. Need a little front sight adjustment to set your windage to mechanical zero? Heat 'er up, and tap it into correct location. Try doing that with pins.
03-26-2009, 09:04 AM
Good suggestions offered here. You did not mention what rifle action you have. If it is a bolt action without a detachable magazine, you will load it from the top, under the scope. An option on scope base(s) is one piece or two piece. Either will work. The one piece is somewhat stronger, but for this application, I prefer the two piece base to facilitate loading/unloading.
Enjoy the new rifle!
03-26-2009, 07:06 PM
Hey guys, thanks for all the help!
Why not see if someone will oversee you while you mount it..Kinda guide you through the process even if you slip 'em a couple bucks...then you will have a good understanding in case you need..I always carry a spare on out of area hunts.
03-27-2009, 11:22 AM
Here is a little tip that will help your screws from ever "working out."
After tightening them take a short screwdriver (or other) insert and put it in the slot and gently tap it - this will seat the head in the base perfectly.
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