Tru- Oil Problems!

[Dclewis]

Just wondering if anyone knows how to get tru-oil smooth after last coat with out loosing the gloss finish?
I have been working on some new unfinished Lami grips from Georgia Jim for my contender.
I followed instructions and they look awesome but final coat is still not quite as smooth as I would like.
These are custom made grips that actually fit better than the originals. For anyone interested I've included the link to Jims website (copy and paste into browser).
Thanks for any tips. Dave





http://www.olegeorgiajim.com/

[Mark]

Tru-oil will not have a high gloss finish. It is made to replicate a hand rubbed linseed or "china wood oil" finish, without the fair amount of labor these traditional hand applied finishes require. By high gloss finish, I mean a Weatherby Mark V finish, or Colt Sauer finish.
Because I can't see what the finish looks like, and am unsure if we have the same definition of high gloss finish, I really can't make judgements to give you help.
Does the finish have little bumps or tiny bubbles in it? (Did you stir or shake the bottle?)
Did you de-whisker the wood before any finish was applied?
How many coats of finish do you have on the project?
What kind of environment did you finish the project in? (Near the forced air furnace downstairs?)
Even if you followed the instructions like a bible, there are still small details that can rear their ugly heads to make trouble for you. If you can give me a better idea what you are, or are not seeing, mayby there is something that is being overlooked.
Mark

[Dclewis]

Hi Mark.
I actually used the spray version. The first 3 or 4 coats were sanded back out to pemit a nice prime to the wood using 220 grt. The fisnish was applied 1 coat per day. The subsiqent coats were also applied 1 per day and treated using 500 to 800 grit and final with ultra fine wool, I then used compressed air to remove any residue. The final coat is of a very high gloss but remains a tad gritty. I thought maybe there is a compound out there that could be used without loosing the deep gloss that I have achieved.
I would be happy to e-mail you a pic if you would like.
Thank for the reply. Dave

[Mark]

Sorry Dave, I have no experience with the spray. I have never gotten a high gloss finish with Tru-oil, the finish has always appeared satin. Here's what I do:
After sanding the stock, getting the sanding marks running with the grain, I use a dry, new, horsehair paint brush to remove any dust. At this point, the workshop gets cleaned, vacuumed and everything. Then I'm done for the day. The next day, after all the dust settles, I give the stock a final dusting. I then apply Tru-oil with my fingers. I rub the finish into the wood at first, then use a motion that leaves a thin coat behind. I let the finish dry at least overnite, truth be known, it probably sits for at least two or three days, I can't seem to find time to really stay at a job.
I then hit the stock lightly with 0000 steel wool, being careful not to remove too much finish. At this point, I'm pretty careful about any dust. If any gritters are in the finish, now's the time to steel wool 'em out. Now I do an appraisal of my shop. If I've raised any dust, I quit for the time, or vacuum again. Usually 2 more coats is all it takes. After this, I need to remove the masking tape, and clean the finish out of the checkering, re-establishing the checkering to the proper depth. After the checkering gets dusted, I use a little linseed oil to seal the checkering. That's it, all done.
The high gloss finish I think you are describing? is achieved with some sort of miracle polymer technology, not an oil finish. Any finish you get with Tru-oil, Linspeed, boiled linseed oil, or Tung oil will be satin. Depending on the amount of time and effort, and level of expertise, these finishes can look a million miles deep and really being out the beauty of wood, but they will not get to the point where you can comb your hair in the reflection.
I sure hope this helps you out.
Mark

[muz125]

I have built quite a few (12+) custom muzzleloaders and true oil is my finish of choice. I always had the high gloss problem too ... everyone said rub until almost dry and it will dull out but that never worked for me. Steel wool, even 0000 does not work for me either. The wool always takes off way too much finish.

Here is what I do...very hard to screw this up.

Put on 8-10 coats of true oil very very thin. Just a drip at a time and spread it out all over the gun. Do no wool or sand between coats. You are trying to build a nice finish but very very slowly. Also, don't worry about the high gloss. If you use my method, you will get a very very high gloss.

To knock down the gloss do this. It is foolproof.

Make sure everything is very dry. Wait a good 2 days after last coat.

Go to a woodworking or painting stoore and get yourself some pumice. It comes in a container that looks like the old cardboard milk cartons from elem. school. Get the finest stuff they have. it will look like a grey talcum powder.

Take the pumice and put about a tablespoon out on a plate or something flat. Now, get a piece of felt from the craft store...you can 12*12 squares for like .50 cents. Cut a piece of the felt and fold into a nice little 1" square. Dip that felt into some baby oil by J*J. Dip it good. Once the felt is wet with baby oil, press it into the pumice and start rubbing the stock. Don't apply too much pressure...this stuff is very fine and is cutting on its own. Keep it moving like spray paint. Do a little at first and then wash the oil off with some warm water. if still too shiny, repeat again.

This works really really great.