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elect_son
09-03-2006, 07:22 PM
I am sighting in my Marlin 1895 rifle and although I've sighted it for 100 yards, I also want to practise at 200 yards. I bought an inexpensive Winchester spotting scope (12-50x50) to use at the range thinking it would allow me to see any holes in my target at 200 yards. Well at 200 yards I cannot make out the holes. I barely can at 100 yards but it does ok at that distance.

What should I look for in a spotting scope that can show me enough detail at 200 yards so that I can see how I'm shooting? The Winchester scope cost $99 and I can't afford to spend much more than say $200. Is such detail possible in a scope in that price range?

Thanks!

rooster52
09-03-2006, 07:52 PM
I would think that your spotting scope would do the job out to 200 yards,that surprises me that it don't.Try a Burris Landmark 15X45X60 .Less tan 200 dollars and has done good by me.I spot my targets at 300 yards and shoot a 243 Winchester and can make out the hits. I also own a Burris Compact 12X24X50 ,I bought this used for 45 dollars and is pretty good for the money.

Mark
09-04-2006, 09:18 AM
Elect,
What you are looking for is a good example of light transmission, not magnification.

There are variables involved here, such as the mirage boiling on any given day, the backlighting of the target, if you only want to spot shots in the white area, and whether you are using the "Shoot 'n see" type targets.
To be able to spot bullet holes at 200 yards is quite an order unless the target is backlit, that is, you can see light through the bullet holes. IMO, this is not something a $200 scope is going to do.
A tip I can give for picking out the best buy for your $200, is to look at various scopes at dusk, when the light is failing. Try to pick out an object in a shadow, and then look for color. With these criteria, you are subjecting the scopes to the greatest challenge. Just for fun, get the clerk to bring out a $1500 scope to compare. You will be suprised at what you learn.
Mark

elect_son
09-04-2006, 10:49 AM
Thanks for the advice. My only experience with a spotting scope was with a friend's ~$800 scope. I think we were able to make out holes at 200 yards (it was several years ago) but obviously that is a much more expensive scope.

At 100 yards this scope was "ok". I was able to make out both .243 and .45/70 holes. My main hunting rifle is the .45/70. Given it's limitations and the terrain I hunt I don't expect to be taking too many, if any, shots over 150 yards. So I sight in for 100 yards. The .243 is a rifle I will use if I am deer hunting only (here the season overlap so if I am out at the right time I can be hunting deer or elk). It shoots much flater and I would take a 200 yard shot. Normally though I am in enough trees that shots longer than 200 yards are rare. The average elk here in Idaho is taken at 75 yards. So I'm not sure being able to see holes at 200 yards it that critical to me and definetely not worth it if I have to step up to a much more expensive scope. My only other thought was stepping up to a scope with a 60mm objective. Cabela's has one for $119 that is a 20-60x60. Maybe that would be a slight improvement over my Winchester?

Does anyone ever use spotting scopes while hunting? I normally use binoculars. This year for the first time I will be doing a spike elk hunt. So now I not only have to get the *** right but I also have to make sure one of the spikes is under 8". I'm wondering if binoculars can give me enough detail at say 100 yards to make that determination or if this is a case where a spotting scope would be valuable? Any thoughts on that?

Thanks again for all the help!

rooster52
09-04-2006, 12:52 PM
Forgot to mention ,I use a target that is all white ,no lines or print and then put a 3 inch orange sticky dot for the center'the same no print on it.That way I can see my hits out to 300 yards but I only shoot on bright sunny days when shooting long distance target shooting.
I have used a spotting scope Antelope and Mule Deer hunting'but found them just extra weight to carry when Elk hunting.

elect_son
09-04-2006, 03:20 PM
Thanks for the advice. My only experience with a spotting scope was with a friend's ~$800 scope. I think we were able to make out holes at 200 yards (it was several years ago) but obviously that is a much more expensive scope.

At 100 yards this scope was "ok". I was able to make out both .243 and .45/70 holes. My main hunting rifle is the .45/70. Given it's limitations and the terrain I hunt I don't expect to be taking too many, if any, shots over 150 yards. So I sight in for 100 yards. The .243 is a rifle I will use if I am deer hunting only (here the season overlap so if I am out at the right time I can be hunting deer or elk). It shoots much flater and I would take a 200 yard shot. Normally though I am in enough trees that shots longer than 200 yards are rare. The average elk here in Idaho is taken at 75 yards. So I'm not sure being able to see holes at 200 yards it that critical to me and definetely not worth it if I have to step up to a much more expensive scope. My only other thought was stepping up to a scope with a 60mm objective. Cabela's has one for $119 that is a 20-60x60. Maybe that would be a slight improvement over my Winchester?

Does anyone ever use spotting scopes while hunting? I normally use binoculars. This year for the first time I will be doing a spike elk hunt. So now I not only have to get the *** right but I also have to make sure one of the spikes is under 8". I'm wondering if binoculars can give me enough detail at say 100 yards to make that determination or if this is a case where a spotting scope would be valuable? Any thoughts on that?

Thanks again for all the help!

elect_son
09-04-2006, 03:38 PM
Thanks for the advice. My only experience with a spotting scope was with a friend's ~$800 scope. I think we were able to make out holes at 200 yards (it was several years ago) but obviously that is a much more expensive scope.

At 100 yards this scope was "ok". I was able to make out both .243 and .45/70 holes. My main hunting rifle is the .45/70. Given it's limitations and the terrain I hunt I don't expect to be taking too many, if any, shots over 150 yards. So I sight in for 100 yards. The .243 is a rifle I will use if I am deer hunting only (here the season overlap so if I am out at the right time I can be hunting deer or elk). It shoots much flater and I would take a 200 yard shot. Normally though I am in enough trees that shots longer than 200 yards are rare. The average elk here in Idaho is taken at 75 yards. So I'm not sure being able to see holes at 200 yards it that critical to me and definetely not worth it if I have to step up to a much more expensive scope. My only other thought was stepping up to a scope with a 60mm objective. Cabela's has one for $119 that is a 20-60x60. Maybe that would be a slight improvement over my Winchester?

Does anyone ever use spotting scopes while hunting? I normally use binoculars. This year for the first time I will be doing a spike elk hunt. So now I not only have to get the *** right but I also have to make sure one of the spikes is under 8". I'm wondering if binoculars can give me enough detail at say 100 yards to make that determination or if this is a case where a spotting scope would be valuable? Any thoughts on that?

Thanks again for all the help!

rem 700
09-04-2006, 05:15 PM
Get some shoot n see targets. For the most part a spotting scope will be a range tool, so I would just stick to your binoculars for the field.

Mark
09-05-2006, 02:14 PM
Elect,
Here's a trick that will help you out. I'm assuming your rifle has open sights, so simply move your rear sight higher. You can aim at the big black target at 200 yards and have your group print out in the white where you can see them in the scope.
Your hold, sight picture, trigger squeeze, etc. all stay the same, the rifle won't know where it's actually hitting, you will just be able to see the hits against a white background.

JUST DON'T FORGET TO MOVE THE SIGHT BACK TO THE PROPER LOCATION!!!!!!!

I did this years ago to find 500 yard zero's for my 30-06. I had a good 200 yard zero, then just moved the scope the right number of clicks so the 200 yard mid range trajectory was what the book said. The shots were out in the white, and I just kept moving the crosshairs until I was the correct distance up. So maybe it's not the best way to do it, at least I was able to compete in a silhouette match instead of wishing I was there. If only I could hold steady!
Mark

elect_son
09-06-2006, 10:18 AM
Thanks again for all the advice. My rifle does have open sights but I put a scope on it and use the scope. I have a hard time aiming with open sights. I never could get use to them.

I am going to try the "shoot-n-see" targets. That sounds like a good idea. I did an experiment where I taped a used target on my garage door and then I got 100 yards away (accurately measured) and used my spotting scope. At 100 yards I could clearly see the bullet holes. I then moved to 150 yards and still could see them. 200 yards was not possible due to neighbor's houses.

Of course having the beige paint of the garage door behind the holes helped. I'm sure the "shoot-n-see" targets will give a similiar result. For my .45/70, I want to be sighted in at 100 yards and probably will never take a 200 yard shot. That's just too long for that rifle and not normally possible where I hunt. I still will practise at 200 yards but having a spotting scope that can see 200 yards is not a must at least given my financial limitations. Maybe with the "shoot-n-see" targets I will be able to make out holes at that distance. That's one nice thing about .45/70, the holes are big!

I think a small, lightweight scope like this will be useful to take hunting especially to make sure I have a legal spike Elk in my sights. I'd hate to take a real expensive scope out on a hunt in case I drop it.

So for now I think I'll keep this scope. Unless I had the money to step up quite a bit I don't think I can do much better.