Marlin 336

[kdog]

O.K. Where are all the Marlin Lever guys? I need help. (I know in more ways than one but lets just stick to the thread....LOL) This may be a dumb question (coming from me it probably is) were their different Marlin 336's produced. I have always thought that all Marlin 30-30 lever guns were the 336. I am now hearing that there are 336C and 336W along with a FP336. Can someone shed some light on this and if so how do I know which rifle I have. My rifle just says 336 and the only thing I have seen different among the Marlin 30-30's is that mine has a gold trigger and some others don't. Mine also has a hood over the front sight and some others don't. As always any and all advice is greatly appreciated. I am going to get a peep sight for my gun but I don't want to get the wrong one. I am planning to go with the Williams 70018 Fire Optic Sight. I would like to know if it will fit my gun. All it says is for the 336 Marlin. This will be a close range (under 100 yard gun) and brush gun. I have never used a peep sight but welcome the experience.

Also, any certain set of peep sight anyone can recommend I am open for suggestions.

[kdog]

BTW, I looked at the Marlin web sight and it says that the W has the gold trigger, however mine doesn't have any checkering on the wood. I am confused.

[citori]

A 336 is a 336 despite what letters are attached. The letters designate various features such as upgrades in the type of wood, sights, accessories, and a host of other reasons. If you think the "336" designation is confusing, think of the other brand names and model numbers the 336 was also sold under, there is maybe a dozen. I have bought around a dozen 336s under various names and models and so far any parts I have needed all had the same part number. Since the Model 36 was changed to become the 336 back in the 1940s I believe, there have been some minor variations but nothing over much. this is no different than with other brands and models such as the Remington 700. There are a multitude of variations but they all share the same basic features.

[kdog]

Thanks Citori. That is what I was figuring. I really didn't think there was any significant difference between them. Thanks again.

[tjen]

1895, 444?, are all 336's just diferent cals and diferent stocks/forarm/magazine length as all ready said.

[kdog]

The reason I was asking is that the peep sight I am looking at getting for my 30-30 says that it will fit the 336. One guy said that it worked great on his 336W however another guy said that it didn't work on his 336C. That is why I was asking,I hate to buy it and it not work but im sure my gunsmith can get it working. Thanks alot for all replies.

[citori]

What do you mean (or actually they mean) by "not work?" It is possible that over time the design of a particular model of aperature sight changed and no longer matched up to the factory installed holes. It is probably that the different makes have different mounting hole spacing rahter than a "universal" one and the one brand did not fit the spacing provided b the factory. I also seem to recall that at one time some of the very least expensive models of the 336 were not drilled and tapped for aperature sights as they have dropped from common use. It is easy to determine this as the holes will not be foun on the upper right coner of the left receiver face. It is not difficult to have the reciever drilled and tapped by a 'smith though not inexpensive to some. It might also be that the type of "peep" sight used may not have mated up properly with the front sight which affected the point of impact/point of aim relationship. I can see this happening in particular with the XS sights which are installed on the top of the reciever on Weaver style scope bases. Ths raises the rear sight up fairly high and very easily could require a front sight replacement. I have experienced this with a tang mounted sight on a couple of rifles. It is also possible that the one person does not know how to use an aperature sight and blames his lack of knowledge on the equipment, a common occurance. It is also possible that the aperature sight chosen is kind of complicated (such as one offered by NEGC) and not easily adjusted though very stable once set.
So, I would call the manufacturer of the aperature sight I am interested in and see what they have to say. Odds are you will have no problem and, if there are some difference in models, then the manufacturer probably knows of them and can steer youto the correct product. Talking to others is only as good as their knowledge and understanding which can vary greatly.

[kdog]

Citori, I am looking at the Williams Fire optic peep sight. I believe it is part number 70018. The rear peep mounts using the factory drilled rear scope holes and the front just replaces the front sight The guy who said that it did not fit his rifle meant that the front sight was to large and did not fit the gun. My Marlin is an older gun, I hope it will work. I am using this rifle as a close brush gun so I don't see a need for a scope however I can't stand Marlin factory sights. I think I will order them and see what happens. If it doesn't fit maybe it will give me an excuse to buy another rifle. Thanks for your help.

I will give Williams a call after the holidays.

[citori]

Now I see what he meant. That is not an unheard of "problem" as there have been a number of different bases and posts used for that piece over the years. I had that occur with a new ramp on a EMF Winchester 1892 replica desite what Williams assured me. About 15 minutes with the front post and a fine file had it fitting properly. I had talked to a Williams representative before doing this and they stated to give it a try and, if not successful, send in the post and base and they would find me something that would fit. For that I heartily recommend the company.

[kdog]

Thanks cittori. I think I will get the sights and see what happens.If they don't fit I am sure Williams will make it right or let me send them back. Your knowledge is much appreciated.I will let you know how it turns out.

[tjen]

I have both the willaims and the XS peep sight and perfer the XS which was the second sight I bought.
Get a a slot blenk for the rear sight slot to protect it.

[chiefjefe]

Has anyone bought a used marlin lever in 30-30 out there? If so let me know how it has performed for you accuracy wise. Thanks.

[tjen]

1.5" @ 100 yards or better is very do-able. Tub magazine tend to string shots with barrel heating if you shoot say five fast shots.

[big medicine]

In the mid to late 70's the 336C rifles were marked with just the 336. They also had the gold triggers. Yours should have the full length mag tube and the barrel bands. The 336A models had the end cap on the forend and no barrel bands.

If you subtract the first two numbers of your serial number from 2000 it will give you the year your rifle was made. For example. 23XXXXX, subtract the 23 from 2000=1977 I will bet yours will be in the mid to late 70's.

If you are looking for a receiver sight there is a guy named Tim Skinner that makes sights. They are top notch sights for a right price. I two of his sights one is a receiver mounted flip up ladder sight with the short range peep and the longrange flip up peep, and he also makes the regular receiver mounted peep, and I have one of those also. They mount in the two rear holes on the reveiver.

Do a search for Skinner sights and check them out. If you have any problems let me know and I can email his address. He is a great guy to deal with.

[kdog]

Thanks Big. I will check them out and get back to you.

[citori]

Has anyone bought a used marlin lever in 30-30 out there? If so let me know how it has performed for you accuracy wise. Thanks.

I have bought several of them, accuracy has ranged from great to terrible though a good cleaning has allowed most to shoot fairly well. The last two I bought was last fall and a couple weeks ago. The one from last fall shoots inside 2" at 100 yards with any factory 170 gr bullet I run through it while is shoots a bit better with 150 gr. I can do close to 1" at 100 yards with its preferred handload using 150 gr Speers. The latest one has been shot only a little, with the factory semi-buckhorn leaf I've been running 1,.5"-1.75" at 50 yards using Federal 170 gr factory loads. That is about what I do with buckhorn sights so I'm not too disappointed. When I get a base and a scope on it I'll see what it really does.

[big medicine]

This is from my Dad's old Marlin 336 made in 1977.

http://i121.photobucket.com/albums/o239/big_medicine/DSCF0032RD30-30.jpg

[tjen]

One thing to concider is how the standard ammo is being down loaded. For example when working up loads for my 35rem the best accuracy is around 2130-2150fps hands down and it was at its worst from 1970-2010fps which is around the now factory offerings. 2188fps seem a good blend of velocity and accuray its still groups at 1.5" but at 2140fps its under an inch. This isn't my medium range gun thats a 358win so I use the extra velcoty and bullet expantion the 2188 load offers.

Same may be for the 30-30win with standard ammo? I think most 336's work the best with the same loads per caliber/cartridge.

[kdog]

I believe mine is a 1978 model. I hope the peep sight will work on this old of a rifle. I haven't shot this rifle since I got it 3 years ago. I know it has been shot alot. The gun was badly dirty when I got it. I don't think it has ever been cleaned. I cleaned on it for hours. I am going to fill the barrel with copper remover and clean it again. Then I will mount my sights and see what it will do. I took the gun in on a trade I hope when I get done it will be accurate. If I can get the accuracy back then I am thinking about tearing it down completely and getting the barrel refinished in a high gloss blue and change my stock and forearm out with claro walnut with a light stain and high gloss finish.Hopefully it will turn out nicey in the end. So wish me luck!

[tjen]

Not knowing what you already, I suggest Butches bore shine or Hoppe's bench rest for soaking a barrel for a few hours. Also concider Kroil oil as another solvent and a few day barrel soaker.

I have found a good but not hash solvet and a good oil work very well to restore old dirty barrels.

My go to for normal cleaning solvents are TM Solution, Hope's #9 nitro, and Kroil oil. Followed by Hope's benchrest oil for storage. The Kroil may be just as good for storage but I just use it for cleaning.

This is just my perferance but I would use a good semi-gloss tung oil as the finish. I ahve a coffee table I did 30 years ago and leaving empty frosted beer mugs over night isn't an issue water can't effect it. Better than any polyurathane finsih I have even seen. But it takes time to dry and build to a thick coat because the first two coats soak in the wood which polys do not.